The Matterhorn (German), Monte Cervino (Italian) or Mont Cervin (French), is a mountain in the Pennine Alps on the border between Switzerland and Italy. Its summit is 4,478 metres (14,690 ft) high, making it one of the highest peaks in the Alps. The four steep faces, rising above the surrounding glaciers, face the four compass points. The mountain overlooks the town of Zermatt in the canton of Valais to the north-east and Breuil-Cervinia in the Aosta Valley to the south. The Theodul Pass, located at the eastern base of the peak, is the lowest passage between its north and south side.
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| (Italy, Switzerland) – Matterhorn - Cervino |
The Matterhorn was one of the last great Alpine peaks to be climbed and its first ascent marked the end of the golden age of alpinism. It was made in 1865 by a party led by Edward Whymper and ended disastrously when four of its members fell to their deaths on the descent. The north face was not climbed until 1931, and is amongst the six great north faces of the Alps. The Matterhorn is one of the deadliest peaks in the Alps: from 1865 – when it was first climbed – to 1995, 500 alpinists died on it.
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| (Italy, Switzerland) – Matterhorn - Cervino |
The Matterhorn has become an iconic emblem of the Swiss Alps and the Alps in general. Since the end of the 19th century, when railways were built, it attracted more and more visitors and climbers. Each summer a large number of mountaineers try to climb the Matterhorn via the northeast Hörnli ridge, the most popular route to the summit.
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| (Italy, Switzerland) – Matterhorn - Cervino |
The Ridges
There are four main ridges on the Matterhorn:
- The Hörnligrat is the northeast ridge. It was the route of the first ascent and is considered to be the easiest route to the summit.
- The Italian Ridge or Liongrat is the southwest ridge. It was the route of the second ascent and is considered to be slightly harder than the Hörnligrat, but has far more fixed ropes making it perhaps easier.
- The Zmuttgrat is the northwest ridge. It is the longest ridge on the mountain.
It is known as a fabulous route, but because of its northern exposure it is frequently out of condition.
- The Furggengrat is the southeast ridge. It is extremely difficult and not frequently climbed.
Climbing the Matterhorn
pon viewing the Matterhorn, both climbers and nonclimbers alike are usually overwhelmed with a desire to climb it.
For the truly experienced alpinist an ascent of the Hörnligrat or Liongrat in good conditions is not difficult compared to some of the classic technical climbs of the Alps. You must be confident and competent at route finding, climbing UIAA II (Class 4) moving together or unroped, and climbing rock and mixed terrain in crampons both up and down. The climb is dangerous due to rock fall and the fact that you are frequently climbing unbelayed or unroped in positions where a fall would certainly be fatal.
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| (Italy, Switzerland) – Matterhorn - Cervino |
A change in the weather with the addition of water, snow, or ice - especially if combined with poor visibility - can quickly change even the easiest route from a pleasant outing to a life and death struggle.
If you are planning an ascent of the Matterhorn, do your research and know your personal limits. The trip reports here (see sidebar) offer some insight into what the mountain can be like and there is much information on the Internet. It is also interesting to read the prerequisites placed on clients by the professional guides (see the links below). Remember that many writers boost their egos by trivializing difficulties. An ascent of the Hörnligrat (the easiest route) is not a simple undertaking. Unguided parties can expect a 12 to 14 hour round trip.
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| (Italy, Switzerland) – Matterhorn - Cervino |
For those who do not feel that they have the experience and skill to climb the mountain on their own, there is the option of taking a guide. This is an expensive option since most of the guide services not only charge a high fee (Zermatt guides - 665 Euros not including hut and food) for the Matterhorn, but also require up to two climbs with them prior to doing the Matterhorn. Experiences with guides especially on the Matterhorn get mixed reviews. Do your research and make your own decision.
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| The Hörnligrat - Matterhorn Cervino |
How to get there
SWISS SIDE
Access to the Matterhorn from the Swiss side is from Zermatt, a major mountain resort.
Public transportation via train or bus then train is easy to arrange. Apparently one can even arrange to arrive by helicopter.
Private cars are not allowed in Zermatt. If you are traveling by car, the closest that you can get is Täsch from which you must travel by train. There is ample parking in Täsch.
From Zermatt, you can use a combination of lifts and hiking or hike directly from the village to the mountain.
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| The Liongrat - Matterhorn Cervino |
ITALIAN SIDE
Access from the Italian side is from Breuil – Cervinia also a major mountain resort.
Public transportation is easy to arrange or you can arrive by car.
How to get to Breuil – Cervinia
From the village, hike or take a small taxi service to the Duca degli Abruzzi (Orionde) Hut / Inn (starting point of the Liongrat) and lift and trail access to other points and huts at the base of the mountain.
(Wiki)
